Journal
Field notes from across India
Seasons, routes, food and etiquette — the things we tell friends before they fly.
City guide · 2 min read
Madurai in Three Days: Temple Streets, Tamil Flavours and Time to Wander
Madurai rewards an unhurried visit: jasmine sellers thread garlands beside busy lanes, temple towers rise above the rooftops, and breakfast deserves your full attention. Over three days, explore its sacred centre, eat beyond the obvious stops and leave room for conversations with a local host.
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Travel tips · 18 August 2026
Your first trip to India: the honest checklist
Visas, SIM cards, cash, trains and the one packing mistake almost everyone makes on a first India trip.
Travel tips · 2 August 2026
When to visit India, month by month
There is no single best season — only the best region for the month you can travel. Here is the map.
Culture · 21 July 2026
Varanasi beyond the ghats
Everyone comes for the sunrise boat. Stay two more days and the city opens in a completely different way.
Must-see · 4 July 2026
Trekking to Meghalaya's living root bridges
Three thousand steps down, three thousand back up, and the strangest engineering in India.
Food · 16 June 2026
Eating across India without getting sick
Where to eat, what to order, and the simple rules that keep a food-led trip on track.
Must-see · 29 May 2026
How to do the Kerala backwaters properly
Skip the floating hotel traffic jam. The canals worth seeing are too narrow for it.