Journal
Field notes from across India
Seasons, routes, food and etiquette — the things we tell friends before they fly.
Travel tips · 7 min read
Your first trip to India: the honest checklist
Visas, SIM cards, cash, trains and the one packing mistake almost everyone makes on a first India trip.
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Travel tips · 2 August 2026
When to visit India, month by month
There is no single best season — only the best region for the month you can travel. Here is the map.
Culture · 21 July 2026
Varanasi beyond the ghats
Everyone comes for the sunrise boat. Stay two more days and the city opens in a completely different way.
Must-see · 4 July 2026
Trekking to Meghalaya's living root bridges
Three thousand steps down, three thousand back up, and the strangest engineering in India.
Food · 16 June 2026
Eating across India without getting sick
Where to eat, what to order, and the simple rules that keep a food-led trip on track.
Must-see · 29 May 2026
How to do the Kerala backwaters properly
Skip the floating hotel traffic jam. The canals worth seeing are too narrow for it.